Exterior paint in Cyprus: facades that stand up to salt, damp and sun

In a single year, a facade in Cyprus goes through summer sun, winter rain and salty air blowing in from the coast. So the first question to ask when choosing exterior paint is this: how many seasons will this wall last in these conditions? Most of the answer is not on the tin. The preparation done before painting, the damp in the wall and the paint system you choose decide the result together.

The steps below apply just as much to seafront villas in Kyrenia and Famagusta as to apartment blocks in Nicosia. The only thing that changes is how exposed the building is to salt and sun.

How the Cyprus climate wears a facade down

The things that break exterior paint down usually work together.

• Over the long summer, sunlight wears down the paint's binder. Colours fade and the surface starts to chalk. If the wall leaves powder on your hand, the paint has reached that stage.
• A wall that heats up by day and cools at night keeps expanding and contracting. Paint that cannot stretch cannot follow that movement, and hairline cracks open up.
• On buildings near the coast, wind-blown salt settles on the surface and, once it meets moisture, works its way under the paint. Salts coming out of the render leave white marks and blisters too.
• Winter rain gets into the wall through cracks, parapets and window reveals. As the trapped water evaporates in the sun, it pushes the paint off from behind.

A seafront villa and a detached house inland stand on the same island. Even so, they get different amounts of salt, wind and sun, and the choice of materials changes with them.

Surface preparation: where durability starts

The most common mistake on a facade is painting straight over an old, failing surface. Paint put on a blistering, chalky or salt-stained wall soon comes away together with the layer beneath it. Good preparation follows this order:

1. First comes an on-site inspection. Blisters, cracks, damp patches and salt stains are marked one by one. Until the source of the damp (roof, parapet, gutter or plumbing) is found, no paint job will last.
2. The wall is washed with a pressure washer and suitable brushes to clear dust, salt and algae. Then it is left to dry out properly.
3. Old paint that has lost its grip and blown render are scraped back to a sound base.
4. Hairline cracks are filled with a suitable filler, and deep cracks and missing render are repaired with a repair mortar. Cracks that move get a flexible product.
5. The last step is primer. You choose one that evens out the wall's absorbency, helps the paint bond and suits the paint system. New render needs an alkali-resistant primer.

New render has to cure fully before it is painted. How long that takes depends on the render and the weather, so the safest course is to follow the manufacturer's technical data sheet.

Which exterior paint: elastomeric, silicone or acrylic?

Exterior paints differ in what they contain and in how they behave. When choosing, look at the building's location, the state of the wall and how often you want to maintain it, all together.

Elastomeric paints

These form a flexible film. As the wall expands and contracts, the paint moves with it and can cover hairline cracks. They work well on facades that see big temperature swings and tend to crack. With a film this thick, the wall must be dry.

Silicone-based paints

Silicone resin paints shed rainwater but let water vapour escape from the wall. In short, the wall can breathe. That also helps against dirt and algae. They are a strong option for coastal facades that take rain and salt.

Acrylic paints

Acrylic exterior paints are common, easy to apply and come in a wide range of colours. On a sound, problem-free surface with regular upkeep they look good for a long time. On a cracked or damp wall they fall short.

No single paint suits every facade. The state of the wall, the distance to the sea and the direction the facade faces decide the choice.

Colour: as much about durability as looks

• Light shades reflect more sunlight. The wall heats up less, and fading shows later.
• Dark and saturated shades absorb more heat. On south- and west-facing walls they can fade faster and put more thermal movement into the wall.
• Accent colours work on small areas such as window surrounds, sills and doors. It is worth knowing from the start that these areas will need attention more often.
• Rather than trusting a colour card, paint a small test patch on the wall. That is the only way to see the real colour in daylight.

Changing the colour of an apartment block or a gated development may need a management decision. Some municipalities have rules on facade colours too. Ask before you start.

Application: the right time and the right conditions

Even the best paint falls short when it goes on in the wrong conditions. In Cyprus, watch for the following:

• A wall in direct midday sun is not painted in summer. The paint dries too fast and does not bond well, so the work is planned around the hours when the sun is off that facade.
• No painting on days when rain is forecast, or straight after rain before the wall has dried.
• Drying times between coats and application temperatures are given in the manufacturer's data sheet, and they are followed.
• The number of coats and their thickness directly affect how well the paint protects. Thinning coats to save material shortens the paint's life.
• Surfaces that will not be painted, such as windows, doors and paving, are covered. Scaffold safety always comes first.

Upkeep: small jobs that extend a facade's life

Exterior paint needs regular care. Small checks put off big, expensive repaints.

1. Check the facade every year. The best times are the end of winter and the end of summer. Look for blisters, cracks, patchy colour or salt stains.
2. Keep gutters, downpipes and parapets clear. Water streaks running down a wall show that water is going where it should not.
3. On coastal buildings, rinsing the facade with fresh water now and then washes off built-up salt. Keep the pressure low.
4. Deal with small cracks and blisters early. A touch-up before damp settles in is far easier than repainting the whole facade.
5. Write down the brand, product name and colour code of the paint used, so later touch-ups match.

When does a facade need repainting?

The wall tells you more than the calendar does. If you see several of these signs together, it is time for a closer look:

• White powder comes off on your hand when you touch the wall.
• There is a clear colour difference between the sunny and shaded sides.
• The paint is blistering or flaking in places, or cracks are getting wider.
• The wall stays dark and wet for a long time after rain.

Common mistakes

• Repainting without fixing the damp problem first.
• Painting over salt stains and chalky surfaces without cleaning them.
• Using interior paint, or any product not made for exterior use, outside.
• Skipping the primer, or choosing one that does not suit the paint system.
• Rushing the work in the heat of the day or in strong wind.

Let's choose the right system for your facade together

Every facade has its own conditions. Distance from the sea, the direction it faces, the age of the render and earlier paint jobs all shape the result. At Oruç Concept, our exterior painting work starts with an on-site inspection: we look at the state of the wall with you and talk plainly about what preparation and which paint system it needs. If you are also thinking about the inside of the house, have a look at our interior painting page. If you would like us to look at your facade with you, just get in touch to book a free site survey.

Photos: Raelle Cameron, Jose Manuel Esp, remapstudio, Unsplash